We meant to go left at the beach and somehow got turned around and ended up near a traffic circle and I remembered that there was a church we had gone in and wanted to go back when there wasn’t a service going on. So we did that 1st.
The steeple on the top of the Basílica.
These were both taken inside the Basilica del Sagrado Corazón. The murals on the ceiling were incredible. We tried to find out who painted them but could not.
After we left the church we made it back to the beach, I persuaded Al out onto the beach.
We walked the whole beach and went up h to be other side. We walked on the promenade through the rain most of the morning.
The promenade turned into gravel walk then led up and around a point of land at the edge of Gijón. We stopped for a coffee and restroom break . That’s one of the hard things I’m dealing with walking here, finding a place indoors to go or even a discreet place outside without someone walking by.
Mother of the immigrants. I refused to walk out for a selfie.
We decided to eat early, last night we waited too long and had to wait until after 8pm again. We ended up having our best menu del dia so far.
Our salads were incredible, different cheeses, olives and ham. Our 2nd could was also fantastic, we think Al had been shanks and I had pork with vegetables.
We continued around town some more and headed back for our laundry.
After the laundry mat we turned in early. Tomorrow we head to A Coruña by bus. Below is Al’s video, I was surprised we walked 10 miles today.
Al booked us into another micro-hotel, we will spend 2 days here exploring. It’s over the weekend and not a lot happening bus wise on a Sunday. We will catch another bus Monday morning, early. Very early actually, bus departs at 7 for A Coruña. We are switching from the Camino Norte to the English route.
Walking to our bus out of Llanes.
We have missed walking to Finisterre on our previous caminos, we are making that a priority this time. So far we have walked about 197 miles in two weeks! Seems crazy, I think Al is underestimating us. There is a lot of walking he’s not tracking, then there’s when he forgets to even start the tracker. 😐
Yesterday in Gijon we were all over the place, watching Al’s Relive video it looks like a giant spiders web.
Arrived in GijonHotel Castillo La Biblioteca Pública Jovellanos de Gijon
After checking in and dropping off our backpacks we headed out. The beach has a long tidal zone. We walked down the promenade and it seemed like the whole city was there. We walked along and past the Church and ended up on the battlements.
San Lorenzo Beach, at low tide. In a few hours this sand will be under water. Looking back at the beach and Gijón’s skyline.
After wandering around the Battlements we went down into an older part of town. There are several Sidrerias on each side of the road. We went into one and ordered a bottle. The waitress put it into this contraption that when you hit the button the sidra pours out and at the same time it aerates the sidra. Which you are supposed to just put a mouthful or so in your glass and drink it right way.
After are refreshment break we continued on down through the older section of town and made our way back towards the beach.
The beach is now under water, the tide has come in. We were astounded by the change.
Tomorrow we intend to go in the other direction down the beach and explore that end of town, until then.. be well.
Al’s Relive video which includes 89 miles of bus ride,
We left Peral without breakfast or coffee, we assumed we would get it at the next town. You know what they say about assuming. The weather forecast said cloudy most of the day, but we walked in the rain for several km this morning. We hoped for coffee in La Franca but both cafes were closed.
We past a few fields of cows.
The road was gravel this morning and we could see the mountains ahead.
Then we passed through Buelna. We did not take the traditional route along the coast this morning, we thought it might be to dangerous due to the weather. The alternate route followed the road. Not as many views but still flowers all over the place.
A bird house, maybe?
We walked on, up and down a few times, through the woods, past this really cool campground called La Paz, white circular tents were nestled under the rock face. There were canals running through the campground from the Rió Novales. We walked beside the river and then through the trees, a perfect little beach.
Playa de Vidiago I didn’t want to leave this beach, just lovely.
We left the beach and went up a couple of switchbacks. We walked along higher on the ridge. Lots of people out walking here. Also cows, sheep and horses.
These mountains are getting closer
Al really wanted to see the blow holes, which we did but they weren’t active because the tide just wasn’t right.
We decided on a break, we each had a granola bar earlier but it was really nice sitting watching the baby horses. We ate some olives and popped the top on a small can of tuna.
We walked up and then down again then over a bridge over the Rió Purón,
After 18 km, We finally got a coffee in Andrin, I actually had two, it was almost 2 in the afternoon and by then I was having a caffeine withdrawal headache. Ugg! We met the sweetest man and I approached him and asked, “Donde está café”? He walked us through town and delivered us to the cafe!
We only have 6 more km’s to Llanes. We left town and went up some more switchbacks. We were up high on the coast again and could see a beautiful beach below.
We then had to walk on the side of the road again leading down into Cue.
Then sidewalks entering into the bigger city of Llanes. We booked ahead at the Albergue La Estación. The Camino is very popular now and even on the Norte we are finding you need to book ahead. Twice now we couldn’t get a bed. We have heard others saying the same thing. There’s just not that many places on the Norte unless your booking in private pensions or hotels. When we did our prior Caminós you didn’t need to worry about reserving ahead until you were closer to Santiago.
After walking partway through Llanes we found our Albergue and checked in. It turns out that I needed to specifically ask for a bottom bunk if that’s what we wanted. So we each ended up on a top bunk and another lesson learned.
Here is Al’s relive video of todays walk, a little over 24 kms today getting to Llanes.
Tomorrow we plan another jump, we’re thinking of leaving the Norte and switching to the English Route to Santiago. Will keep you updated.. until then be well.
Our Albergue was pretty nice. We saw a few familiar faces. We did have to wash our clothes in the bathroom sink where there was wash boards provided. A nice clothesline outside under lemon and orange trees.
Our clothesline Also looking forward We walked around a bit last night after dinner. The view behind our Albergue, looking forward.
In the morning I took a quick picture before we left, it looks like the tide change is quite substantial.
I really liked this town, I loved the mix of old and new. But really I liked the old, I loved the stone walls and cobblestone streets.
We left early, before the crowd, as we leave we leave Cantabria behind and enter Asturias. Again we walked on cement roads but the view was nice.
I loved the sunbeam’s breaking through the clouds as I looked back.
So many daisies I loved this little garden These are just everywhere, in little cracks in rocks. 1st time I saw this flower.
We walked mostly on backroads through small hamlets and farmland. We did not see the coast today. When we got to the Albergue where we had hoped to stay, which has 117 beds, it was sold out. There were two other places in town, also full. We had to walk on to the next town. We ended up in Peral. We got a private room above a bar/restaurant. We went out to find a grocery store but no luck, we ended up eating dinner in the bar and had an early night.
It seems I forgot Al’s Relive video from yesterday, I like them. I like how it shows our altitude gains and distance walked. Even though, like today he forgets to even start it.
We left a little bit late this morning knowing that we had until 11:20am before our bus left. We went back downtown to the ferry stop and from there to the bus terminal. We hit a snag there, we were given mis-information, our bus wasn’t leaving till 12:55pm. We got coffee and sat down to wait.
I’ve mentioned before how great the mass transit system is here but it bares repeating. Our bus driver was great, we stowed our backpacks below the bus and paid him less then 10E to go 67 km, for the both of us!
We bussed to Comillas and our plan is to do a “ Nero”. A Nero is a nearly zero day or a low mileage day.
I saw these guys right when I stepped off the bus. I just liked the looked of this house. Sobrellano Palace
We walked through the center of the old section of town past a long park heading towards the coast. We walked along past an estuary for awhile.
Then we passed this fabulous lagoon.
The water was such a beautiful color.
Then we walked around a golf course and there was La Playa de Oyambre beach.
All along the beach were camper vans with surf boards attached. Further up the coast we saw land rented out for parking of campers and vans. We started going uphill and rounded the headland. Farm land was on our left and mountains beyond.
We rounded the corner and could see Grera beach below us.
We watched the people surfing for a few minutes. Then it was uphill again.
We could see the town, San Vincente de la Barquera below us . The water was just beautiful, later when we came down the water was all gone because the tide had pulled it so far back. We crossed a bridge into town. The town from the bridge, the high point up on the left is our Albergue.
We really didn’t know exactly where we were staying the night. We have been having a hard time finding beds. Tonight we tried Booking.com and we were walking to the place but the add must have been old. There was no Pension there. So I saw a bigger Albergue on the edge of town we tried there next. Uphill again of course.
On the stair wall going up. The view from the other side of the hill our Albergue is on. On the wall outside of our Albergue Doorway to the back garden of the Albergue
We were at the Albergue De Peregrinos de San Vincente. It had 38 bunks, a small kitchen and lounge and separate bathrooms and showers for men and women. We settled in quick then headed down for some dinner.
We walked around a bit and decided on where to eat our meal of the day. Our waitress tonight spoke no English and I only know a basic Spanish. 1st course, paella, was excellent, I ate the octopus parts and everything. 2nd course I went on her recommendation, a local small fish, fried with patatas fritas on the side. Al had to eat that. I have no idea what it was and I honestly did try it. A small bit anyway.
Tomorrow we head inland for awhile, until then be well
We jumped on a city bus and headed back to the city pier where we started walking yesterday. Today we go in the opposite direction.
I still carried my backpack but mostly empty, just food, water and emergency stuff. Al had a small bag that he also carried. We really want to walk as much as we can today, so we are “slack packing” it. We left everything in our hotel room today knowing we are returning to the same place later tonight.
Walking along the waterfront I want one of these bushes. Santander has a very busy marina right beside the city.
We continue through the city following the curve of the coast. We can see Soma on the other side.
Going up another level on the coast
There’s a little statue on top of this rock. A Casino
Wall art we saw while off track. Almost to the coast.
We got a little lost here. We were supposed to go up multiple stair cases to get to another level but stairs were closed for repairs. We had to find a road that went out to the coast.
We are almost there, we unavoidably missed a piece but that’s okay.
We ate our lunch here, just beautiful.
It was rutted and rocky but still we enjoyed ourselves walking along the top of the ridge line.
Looked like this rock was ready to slip into the sea. This looked and felt like a fossil Al thought this looked like an Elephant, hmmm maybe if you squint a little Playa de El BocalJust can’t get enough of those waves. This was just a carpet of flowers.
We are about at the end of our cliff walk along the coast. We had wanted to do more that’s the reason behind the slack packing but my feet have met their limit. We turned in at an Estuary called Ría de San Pedro Del Mar.
Have no idea what this thing is. This was in someone’s yard, I happened to look in the driveway and had to take a picture. We went past several horse paddocks.
Als Relive Video link is below, I almost forgot again
At this hostel we were treated like expected and welcome guests. We were invited to the dinner that they prepared and then waited on by them. Bringing us more helpings and encouraging us all to eat and enjoy. This hostel is special, they have a philosophy of volunteerism that he explains during a pre-dinner talk that we were encouraged to attend.
Views from the Albergue
We left heading down, that was a first for us so far. Walking along on the side of the road heading to Galizano with the hopes of making it to Santander today.
We entered town and headed to the coast.
Cows were cuddling.
We left the town behind and started walking beside farm land on left side and the ocean to our right. The views were incredible and we could see Santander off in the distance.
Stairs leading down to the beach. Look how far we’ve already gone! Santander on the other side. Getting ready to head down off the edge and into Loredo.
We walked on the beach for a bit and decided to walk into Loredo heading to our next ferry point in Somo.
Another lovely church Art on the side of the building
Walking through town seemed to go on for ever, almost the end of a long day. Lots of surf shops and schools here. We made it to the ferry just in time to see it leaving. We grabbed a seat and waited about 25 minutes for it’s return.
Looking back at Somo’s shoreline Santander skyline Made it to Santander
We booked ahead in Santander, we decided to stay two days. We want to try lightning our packs and seeing if we can walk more without all that weight on our backs.
It’s pouring down rain now but we carry on on the regular Norte route through the center of the City. We are in time for a late lunch and find a restaurant serving the Meal of the day. The rain has lessened now and we soon find our place and settle in.
Tomorrow our plan is to take a bus back to the ferry point and start walking the alternative route there along the coastline…so until then be well.
The morning walk was fun. We ran into several people whom we had met already. When we left we walked along a sea wall to Getaria. Lots of people walking back and forth. People in scuba gear fishing in the water below, we thought they were seals. And lot of bicyclists.
Heading to the sea wallThe next town in the distance.
It was a pleasant walk along the ocean.
Once in Getaria, we heard music, the Town Band was out and practicing then we turned inland and of course up.
Off the city roads and quickly into the countryside.
At one point we noticed all these sheep in a line and these backpackers in the distance and wondered where are the going? We checked our map, somewhere we missed a turn and had to go back.
We continued walking along country trails then roads and started seeing the next town in the distance, Zumaia.
There was a long steep walk into town, we followed the yellow arrows and somehow missed one again, just a little backtrack this time.
We were hoping to find a grocery store if market open but it’s Sunday and everything is closed up. We are quickly through town and heading up again
We were already tired at this point, I believe we had walked about 9 miles so far. We had a choice to continue on main trail of take the alternate which appeared shorter. We made the wrong decision by choosing the alternate . The pictures are lovely but as we went on the trail got narrower, we saw no more hikers and the signs all but disappeared. Our phones had no service and the trail went from rugged to dangerous. We had to scale hillsides that were so steep we were grabbing handfuls of grass to stay vertical. Then we had to walk along the cliffs edge, down one side of shale and up again, over and over.
We didn’t see another person for a few hours and the path was almost nonexistent at times.
Finally we left the shore but it didn’t get much better, we somehow were on the correct trail and made it to a road up and out only to turn into the woods onto another really tough section.
Looking back was beautiful but I don’t ever want to do that again.
At this point we had walked 3 miles in about 3 hours. Once in the woods it didn’t get much better, there were now signs but they were conflicting, we went one way only to have it dead end more then once. The way marked with an X over it was actually the correct way. We came out of the woods to cross over a road and finally into Deba. We made it into town and got a bed at an albergue at 8:pm. We had been walking 11 hours and managed just a little over 15 miles. There was a lot of back and forth in there, it was a very frustrating and a very long day. We were so beat neither one of us had taken any pictures in the last few hours leading into Deba.
We are arriving in Spain again, hiking another Camino.
Today will be a combination of trains planes and buses. We left before the sun was up. Our valet, Al’s brother Brian dropped us off with plenty of time at the train station. Once in NYC we had some time to kill. We decided on a diner for breakfast. We had a nice relaxing breakfast at the Tick Tock Diner. Food and service were excellent and I would definitely recommend this place. The diner is just a few blocks down from Penn Station. After that we roamed around a bit, ended up in Times Square. It has been raining so we decided to head back to the train station. We will won’t arrive until around midnight by my watch but it will only be 6 am in Spain . The day will just be starting and we will be dog tired.
This time we hope to complete the Camino del Norte, certainly not the more popular route due to it being more rugged. By some it is considered one of the most beautiful as it follows the coast line before turning inland to Santiago. Some say it also has the best food, I personally can’t wait for the tapas!
We will again start at the border between France and Spain, this time in a small border town called Irún. We will meander through 4 separate regions in Spain, starting in the Basque Country then Cantabria and Asturias and finally Galicia. This time we are determined to make it to Finisterre. In times past the Romans believed it was the end of the world. The name derives from the Latin finis terrae, meaning “ end of the earth”.
ramblingduo 