We decided to carry our backpacks today, supposed to be a short day. 😐hmm. I’ve heard that before. We will see.
I thought these boats by the bridge looked nice.
We had a nice easy walk out of town. We crossed over one beach and then circled another into Cee. We then went up through Corcubion.
We could see this Church in the distance. Then we were there.
We were just walking down roads, following another walker when we turned a corner and the arrows directed us to walk through an alley. Then we were going up. We entered some woods, which I always like.
Loved the root system on this plant. growing on the alley wall. Check out that mailbox. The tiles are all so beautiful. This couple led me into their garage and let me take some pictures.
Then into another town again. We could see Fisterra now in the distance, still have a way to go.
We were finally there! Our Compostela from Fisterra.
We had to wait for the Pilgrim’s Office to open to we found our Hostel and dropped everything there. We then went out exploring and ended up on the wharfs. There were seafood restaurants back to back all down the wharf. We chose one and had the ‘Meal of the Day’.
Our Compostela from the English Way
Tomorrow we head back to Santiago, until then.. be well.
I convinced Al we could walk to the beach. The one I wanted to go to was only a little over 6 miles away. We were in Vila Nova de Gaia, I wanted to walk to Miramar and the beach of Senhor da Pedra.
We walked out of town and zigged and zagged all over the place. We got to this small narrow road and as we walked along I saw a barbershop 💈. Al was in need of a haircut and those little scissors on my Swiss Army knife wasn’t going to cut it. Ha!
I stepped in the door and asked the gentleman there if he would cut Al’s hair. He explained that he was actually retired but he did cut hair by appointment. He looked at Al’s shaggy head and said come on in. His shop had one chair and a keyboard, a guitar, a music stand and books piled everywhere.
He talked to Al the whole time he was cutting his hair. He was a 3rd generation barber. He pointed out a picture on the wall, he said the boy in the picture was him and that this shop had been in his family since his grandfather’s time. He had started out washing hair as a boy. He had enlisted in the Army, same as Al. He was a Sargent, same as Al. They talked and talked. Then he said Al could also use a shave, so he did that too.
By this time another man had entered the shop, turned out to be the barber’s best friend. More talking. When Al was done he asked if Al would take a picture with him.
It felt like we were leaving a friend behind when we walked on from there.
We headed in a straight line to the beach after that. They had what appeared to be a non-stop boardwalk all along the beach. It was actually the Camino heading up from Lisbon to Porto.
We had packed our lunch and ate on some rocks watching the waves. Then I walked the beach and Al the boardwalk.
We left the beach behind and saw that a street festival was going on. We got some ice cream cones and looked at all the booths. Then we saw all of these fountains and checked those out.
We decided to take the train back and mapped to the station. Then we waited with a bunch of people for almost an hour.
Tomorrow we start another Camino, the Portugal Coastal Way. Until then.. be well..
We headed out early today. We wanted to get some information on the Portuguese Coastal Way and see if there was a service for moving backpacks for us.
We headed over to Porto and climbed those 230 steps! We started looking for the Cathedral and Pilgrim office.
Cathedral at the top of the hill.
After getting our new Pilgrim passports we walked around for a couple of hours. The city was incredibly crowded. We tried to capture some of the wall art.
We decided to hop on a bus and head to the Beach. It’s several kilometers away and we decided to get a ride one way and take our time walking back.
I beach combed for a bit then rejoined Al and we toured this Fort.
Then the most incredible thing happened. We continued walking and I heard someone say, “hey you two”. It was the couple from Holland we had dinner with at Casa Pepa’s Albergue, several days ago.
We were all pretty surprised. We walked and talked together going back towards Porto.
We stopped and shared a pitcher of Sangria and chatted for a bit. It started getting late and it was their last night in Porto. We left them as they jumped on a tram. Al and I continued walking and once we reached our small apartment, settled in for the night.
I put the link for today’s ramble below, tomorrow we head in the opposite direction, Gaia..until then.. be well.
We had a long walk once we arrived in Porto. I earlier mentioned that we were taking a train, I misspoke, we traveled by bus. Al had said it was just a short walk from here to Porto. I also thought it was just a couple of miles, 2 hours later. Turns out in the 5 years since we had been here, things had changed, imagine that.
We had another nice experience, we met a couple from Oregon who had been in Porto for a month and today happened to be their last day. We walked most of the way with them. They told us about their month and we told them about our Caminos.
Looking across to Gaia at the Monastery. Al said last time I walked across on the higher level, not this time.
We walked along the Rio Douro then had to cross over to Gaia, where our room was. We walked over the Dom Luis I bridge which has 2 levels, the lower level has a sidewalk and car traffic. You could walk over the higher level or take the tram . To get there you would need to either all ready be UPtown, take the elevator , the Lada Lift or climb the 230 steps up.
Finding our apartment and getting into it turned out to be difficult. We have mostly had good experiences so far, there have been a couple of questionable places. We thought this was one. The check in process took about an hour and a half where we stood on the sidewalk with our backpacks on. Not a happy camper at this point. But it turned out to be good once we were in. We had the whole apartment for 3 days, which even had a washer!! It was also extremely budget friendly, ie…cheap!
Our room was pretty high up there.
We went to a grocery store and got things for a few days but honestly at this point I was too tired to even think about cooking. It had gotten pretty late and we still hadn’t eaten since breakfast so we headed down to the area around the bridge. Restaurants back to back, mostly seafood and port wine samples.
They actually had barbed wire up so you wouldn’t step on peoples roofs.Looking across the water at Porto.
We called some of our kids, chatted and went to find some food.
Once we made it to Finisterre we had actually completed two Caminos on this trip, we received two Compostelas but we decided to just keep walking.
Let me back up, Al wanted to wait after getting to Fisterra to actually walk to the end, about 3 kilometers to the 0.0 kilometer marker. He wanted to watch the sun drop into the ocean. He said. “ We will get a bottle of wine, some corn nuts”. He had me at the wine but I will admit to a little corn nut addiction. I’ve already checked Amazon to see if I can still get these corn nuts in the states. Al assures me I can, but just to be sure I had to check. Not actually the same kind but I will have to adjust. We shared some corn nuts a few nights ago at O Bordón when we hung out with the other hikers. Sorry, rambling on about corn nuts.
We went down to the beach and there were shells everywhere. We walked down to the wharf again.
We had some time to spare until sunset, we went to the beach and I walked in the surf. We have just today to be here and are heading out tomorrow back to Santiago. We went to the bus station to get tickets and found out we should have done this hours ago. The first two buses were already sold out, our bus wouldn’t leave until 11:30 tomorrow.
As I said earlier it is about a 3 kilometer walk out to the very end of Fisterra and that tip of land that juts out into the water where the land ends and ocean begins. We made our way out of town following another couple on a slight incline. Then we were joined by 5 elderly gentleman. Then a few more people. Soon we were a line of people walking down the side of the road in fog. Yes, a complete whiteout. At first it was lovely, the road was winding up, wispy clouds were drifting by and then .. where’s the road?? It occasionally got better. We could certainly see where we were going but I wasn’t climbing down any rocks when I couldn’t see where my feet where. There was a Hostel, a cafe and a gift store. There was also a person playing his guitar for some spare coins. We sat in the parking lot in the fog and I’m not sure when the sun set but we drank our wine and headed back.
0.0That’s Al down there by the cross.
So far to this point we have walked 304.1 miles. We still have some time on our hands and we debated a few different ideas. I was pushing for England, once in Europe travel is really inexpensive. Al wanted France. We talked about Portugal, where we went after our last Camino. We decided on Portugal again, just a relatively short train ride. I didn’t want to take a plane or all day traveling. Al agreed but wanted one more day in Old Santiago and a few days in Porto before we started on the trail again.
We decided to start walking the Portuguese Coastal Camino and see how far we get. It’s supposed to be relatively flat and begins in Porto.
We enjoyed Casa Pepa’s, someone here helped us to get hooked up with carrier service for our backpacks. So today we hope to get a lot of miles done. We will see.
This church and cemetery were right outside of our Hostel I liked all the angels.Just to know where we started from. Very misty this morning.
We were feeling great this morning, loved the misty fields and hills. We actually passed a few people, that’s new! They usually are passing us.
After several kilometers , we started climbing up then down. In and out of small towns.
We started climbing again, zigging and zagging. The mist had burned off and now it seemed to be too hot, even without backpacks, I felt done in.
This was beautiful. All of a sudden there was a waterfall and we had to cross over the water.
We reached a ridge top, we appeared to be on equal level with the windmills. I couldn’t help thinking, “ How the heck did we get way up here”? You lose track, your feet just keep going, one in front of the other and then you look up and, WOW!
We could see the river way down below.
After this ridge we finally came down and wound our way through another town and up again. I was pretty hangry by this time if you know what I mean, not very good company at all. Our walking today even without backpacks was tough, it was hot and just seemed to be too much. Then there was a coffee bar!!! I was saved! We made it to Camino Chans.
Our albergue , O Bordón turned out to be pretty good. Only 4 of us at the beginning. The other two women we had seen a few times already and they were also at our albergue last night.
We ended up being too late for dinner again, another person joined our search and we walked through the town hoping to find something to eat. One bar took pity on us and we ended up sharing a great dinner. The woman who joined us was Czech. She was one of the nicest people we met on our Camino. She invited us not only to visit her country but to come stay in her home with her family for a few days when we get done walking.
Then back at the Albergue our Host had left to vote. Two other people came to check in, a father and son. We had a nice kitchen and a stocked bar with a beer tap. We had a pretty good time needless to say.
He told us later that it was 10k to the town he had voted in and he walked there and back. We all joked that now he had walked the Camino too. We all talked together about music and food and how things were different in our home countries.
Below is Al’s Relive video and tomorrow we arrive in Fisterra. Until then ..be well.
This is a lovely little city. We walked around a bunch after checking in. Did our laundry at the laundry mat. We are kinda lovin the laundry mats. They are to me, extremely automated. You pay at one screen where you select what machine you are using, either to wash or dry. If you use a credit card it’s a cheaper price. The detergent and antiseptic is automatically added. I admit to not normally using one at home so maybe all laundry mats are like this now. I grew up with a strong dislike of going to the laundry mat. Bad memories. These have given me a new perspective and even fonder memories.
There was much to see walking out of Negreira. There appeared to be living quarters or old store fronts in the actual wall.
We walked through the wall, impressive. Then saw this statue behind. We talked about what it could mean for awhile. There was nothing there with an artist name or anything explaining it. We later found out that it’s a dramatic sculpture about migration.
We walked up and out of town where the road changed from cement to gravel. We passed a cemetery and a church.
Looking back. Then we entered the woods.
We were feeling the weight of our packs today. We had wanted to send our packs ahead but when I called there was a communication problem. I told the person that I speak limited Spanish. He spoke rapid fire in response to every question I asked. I wasn’t catching any of it and finally just said, “ gracias, lo siento, no importa” thank you, I’m sorry, never-mind. We have been carrying them everyday when we hike and it would be nice to figure out how not to.
This Church was very small.
We continued along a ridge and then meandered down, to only go up again. Then walked on the sides of roads for a bit.
Some of their vegetables get as tall as trees!
We stopped for a much needed coffee break, two for me. We thought maybe a longer break without the backpack on would help me feel better, debatably.
There are really so many different kinds of things to look at. When we aren’t talking to each other, or in our own heads talking to ourselves we talk to all the people passing by. We have met so many nice people from all over the place and seen so many things that I know that the memories from this trip will be cherished.
We made it to Santa Marina, we walked about 14 miles today along the trail. Our Albergue tonight is called Casa Pepa. He makes dinner for everyone also for an extra 10e, which was good because he was the only place around. We had a really good meal and sat next to a great couple from Holland who had been biking the Camino.
Below is Al’s Relive video from today, until the next one.. be well.
We had made it to Santiago before 1 in the afternoon. We had packed our lunch the day before so we ate in the square, the Plaza del Obradoiro, by the Parador Santiago.
The Parador
We assumed we would stay in the Monastery, we have stayed there 2 other times. It has over 2 hundred bunks, but reportedly, it was full. We couldn’t find a place anywhere in the older part of Santiago.
We actually walked the French route in reverse for about 4km through the city to our Hotel. We went past it a few times because it was in the basement of a Frutarías and on the other side of a 4 lane highway.
After dropping our packs and cleaning up we went in search of food. We missed it again, restaurant wouldn’t open again till 9pm for dinner. I bought some watermelon to see us through until then. I did some laundry in the sink and hung it outside. We then decided no way were we going to make it till 9pm for dinner. We hit the road again and used our Google Maps to find some other place nearby. Nothing less then 2 km away. We ended up in a fabulous place, shared some wine, a few tapas, a salad and a steak taco. Which was not like any taco I’ve had before. It was steak medallions, mushrooms and onions mixed with fries. It was great.
The next morning we caught a city bus back to center of Santiago. Which was actually the college, not where we wanted to be and the bus was full to capacity . We had to stand in aisle with our backpacks hitting people. We were the last ones off, headed out in the wrong direction, again, got oriented and made it back to the Plaza del Obradoiro where the Camino Finisterre begins.
I snuck into here for a quick picture, Palacio Fonseca. Walking out on cobblestone roads. The cars would fly by making a rumbling noise.
We soon left the city walls behind. I find it incredible that we are in a bustling city and 5 minutes walking and there’s a farmstead.
Then we hit some woods and started climbing . At the summit we turn onto the road and there are some benches to enjoy the view back at Santiago.
The Cathedral spires.
We continued on through several smaller towns, then started climbing and climbing more.
Medieval Bridge in Augapesada. We rested here and chatted with a few other walkers.
We finally stopped climbing the road leveled out and we stopped panting for breath. Then we saw this beautiful town in the distance. We were hoping this was the town with the Albergue we were staying in. It was not, a few kilometers yet to go.
The town was really just a couple of streets with very few houses. Negreira is still a few towns ahead.
Walking into Ponte Maceira Al took this video, and below is the link of our walk with Relive. We walked 14.4 miles, our elevation was a total of 1765 feet.
We enjoyed our stay in this Albergue, even though I was TOPBUNK again. Have I mentioned that I seem to get the top bunk a lot. Well I do. A lot. Not a fan of climbing up that little ladder. Getting down, no issues, up, Ugg!
This was built right into a hillside, showers and bathrooms on the left, we had to go outside to get to them, bunk room and sitting area on the right.
The attendant here told us that we would not qualify for a Compostela once we reach Santiago . The rule from the church is that you have to walk the last one hundred Kilometers leading into Santiago to qualify. Those other 300 Kms we walked are irrelevant. 😐We’ve seen the trucks delivering bread every day, 1st time I’ve seen the bin to put it into.
We have been seeing the same people now everyday since starting the English Way. It’s nice, even with the language barrier it usually works. The Greek woman speaks perfect English because she’s actually from Pennsylvania. The elderly Spanish woman, we had coffee with and chatted on the trail a few times now. The two young Danish girls whom are always singing or laughing. Then the group of four, no idea where they were from but we chatted several times meeting at coffee or beer breaks.
This was where we stopped for coffee. The person had all these statues and other things including a dinosaur outside.
We continued on, energized.
The weather was beautiful today. We seemed to walk on more paths also. The road top would just end and a gravel type path continue on.
We walked 15.5 easy miles today. Tomorrow we walk into Santiago, should also be less miles. We hope to arrive around lunchtime. Below is Al’s relive video.
We were the only two in our Albergue last night. We chose to share a room instead of purchasing a private room but we didn’t have to share! No Top Bunk! There was a kitchen, a washing machine and it offered free breakfast.
We got showered and then washed our clothes. We hung them out on the line under an enclosed porch. Then we went to the grocery store. We decided on a fresh store made pizza. I happen to really love pizza so that sounded good to me. We also got some salad fixings, bananas, apples and things for lunch tomorrow.
We got a double whammy when we found we had no pan to cook the pizza on. I did check before we left and saw that the kitchen had just about everything, but alas no pizza or baking sheets.
Then we couldn’t light the oven anyway!
Al is good at improvising, he cut the pizza and put half of it in a frying pan and used another pan as a lid. It turned out Fantastic!!
We left the Sigueiro and walked a bit through town before entering the countryside.
Once we left the woods we started seeing the outskirts of the city.
Then before we knew it we were seeing the Cathedral.
We found the Pilgrims office and got our number then waited to be called in. I was 989 and Al had 1006. We didn’t know if we would be given a Compostela or not, based upon what we had been told.
ramblingduo 