In Gijon

Al booked us into another micro-hotel, we will spend 2 days here exploring. It’s over the weekend and not a lot happening bus wise on a Sunday. We will catch another bus Monday morning, early. Very early actually, bus departs at 7 for A Coruña. We are switching from the Camino Norte to the English route.

We have missed walking to Finisterre on our previous caminos, we are making that a priority this time. So far we have walked about 197 miles in two weeks! Seems crazy, I think Al is underestimating us. There is a lot of walking he’s not tracking, then there’s when he forgets to even start the tracker. 😐

Yesterday in Gijon we were all over the place, watching Al’s Relive video it looks like a giant spiders web.

After checking in and dropping off our backpacks we headed out. The beach has a long tidal zone. We walked down the promenade and it seemed like the whole city was there. We walked along and past the Church and ended up on the battlements.

San Lorenzo Beach, at low tide. In a few hours this sand will be under water.

After wandering around the Battlements we went down into an older part of town. There are several Sidrerias on each side of the road. We went into one and ordered a bottle. The waitress put it into this contraption that when you hit the button the sidra pours out and at the same time it aerates the sidra. Which you are supposed to just put a mouthful or so in your glass and drink it right way.

After are refreshment break we continued on down through the older section of town and made our way back towards the beach.

Tomorrow we intend to go in the other direction down the beach and explore that end of town, until then.. be well.

Al’s Relive video which includes 89 miles of bus ride,

https://www.relive.cc/view/vYvEK4pYrw6

Walking on to Llanes

We left Peral without breakfast or coffee, we assumed we would get it at the next town. You know what they say about assuming. The weather forecast said cloudy most of the day, but we walked in the rain for several km this morning. We hoped for coffee in La Franca but both cafes were closed.

The road was gravel this morning and we could see the mountains ahead.

Then we passed through Buelna. We did not take the traditional route along the coast this morning, we thought it might be to dangerous due to the weather. The alternate route followed the road. Not as many views but still flowers all over the place.

We walked on, up and down a few times, through the woods, past this really cool campground called La Paz, white circular tents were nestled under the rock face. There were canals running through the campground from the Rió Novales. We walked beside the river and then through the trees, a perfect little beach.

We left the beach and went up a couple of switchbacks. We walked along higher on the ridge. Lots of people out walking here. Also cows, sheep and horses.

Al really wanted to see the blow holes, which we did but they weren’t active because the tide just wasn’t right.

We decided on a break, we each had a granola bar earlier but it was really nice sitting watching the baby horses. We ate some olives and popped the top on a small can of tuna.

We walked up and then down again then over a bridge over the Rió Purón,

After 18 km, We finally got a coffee in Andrin, I actually had two, it was almost 2 in the afternoon and by then I was having a caffeine withdrawal headache. Ugg! We met the sweetest man and I approached him and asked, “Donde está café”? He walked us through town and delivered us to the cafe!

We only have 6 more km’s to Llanes. We left town and went up some more switchbacks. We were up high on the coast again and could see a beautiful beach below.

We then had to walk on the side of the road again leading down into Cue.

Then sidewalks entering into the bigger city of Llanes. We booked ahead at the Albergue La Estación. The Camino is very popular now and even on the Norte we are finding you need to book ahead. Twice now we couldn’t get a bed. We have heard others saying the same thing. There’s just not that many places on the Norte unless your booking in private pensions or hotels. When we did our prior Caminós you didn’t need to worry about reserving ahead until you were closer to Santiago.

After walking partway through Llanes we found our Albergue and checked in. It turns out that I needed to specifically ask for a bottom bunk if that’s what we wanted. So we each ended up on a top bunk and another lesson learned.

Here is Al’s relive video of todays walk, a little over 24 kms today getting to Llanes.

https://www.relive.cc/view/vRO78QKYjK6

Tomorrow we plan another jump, we’re thinking of leaving the Norte and switching to the English Route to Santiago. Will keep you updated.. until then be well.

Leaving San Vincente de la Barque heading towards Colombres

Our Albergue was pretty nice. We saw a few familiar faces. We did have to wash our clothes in the bathroom sink where there was wash boards provided. A nice clothesline outside under lemon and orange trees.

In the morning I took a quick picture before we left, it looks like the tide change is quite substantial.

We left early, before the crowd, as we leave we leave Cantabria behind and enter Asturias. Again we walked on cement roads but the view was nice.

I loved the sunbeam’s breaking through the clouds as I looked back.

We walked mostly on backroads through small hamlets and farmland. We did not see the coast today. When we got to the Albergue where we had hoped to stay, which has 117 beds, it was sold out. There were two other places in town, also full. We had to walk on to the next town. We ended up in Peral. We got a private room above a bar/restaurant. We went out to find a grocery store but no luck, we ended up eating dinner in the bar and had an early night.

https://www.relive.cc/view/vXOnxPM2e5q

Now, todays,

https://www.relive.cc/view/vJOKZd5p85v

Tomorrow we hope to see some “ Bufones” , blow holes. .. until then, be well

Leaving Santander

We left a little bit late this morning knowing that we had until 11:20am before our bus left. We went back downtown to the ferry stop and from there to the bus terminal. We hit a snag there, we were given mis-information, our bus wasn’t leaving till 12:55pm. We got coffee and sat down to wait.

I’ve mentioned before how great the mass transit system is here but it bares repeating. Our bus driver was great, we stowed our backpacks below the bus and paid him less then 10E to go 67 km, for the both of us!

We bussed to Comillas and our plan is to do a “ Nero”. A Nero is a nearly zero day or a low mileage day.

We walked through the center of the old section of town past a long park heading towards the coast. We walked along past an estuary for awhile.

Then we passed this fabulous lagoon.

Then we walked around a golf course and there was La Playa de Oyambre beach.

All along the beach were camper vans with surf boards attached. Further up the coast we saw land rented out for parking of campers and vans. We started going uphill and rounded the headland. Farm land was on our left and mountains beyond.

We rounded the corner and could see Grera beach below us.

We watched the people surfing for a few minutes. Then it was uphill again.

We really didn’t know exactly where we were staying the night. We have been having a hard time finding beds. Tonight we tried Booking.com and we were walking to the place but the add must have been old. There was no Pension there. So I saw a bigger Albergue on the edge of town we tried there next. Uphill again of course.

We were at the Albergue De Peregrinos de San Vincente. It had 38 bunks, a small kitchen and lounge and separate bathrooms and showers for men and women. We settled in quick then headed down for some dinner.

We walked around a bit and decided on where to eat our meal of the day. Our waitress tonight spoke no English and I only know a basic Spanish. 1st course, paella, was excellent, I ate the octopus parts and everything. 2nd course I went on her recommendation, a local small fish, fried with patatas fritas on the side. Al had to eat that. I have no idea what it was and I honestly did try it. A small bit anyway.

Tomorrow we head inland for awhile, until then be well

The coastal route around Santander

I forgot Al’s Relive video of yesterday’s walk, link is below.

https://www.relive.cc/view/vPOprBz57Rq

We jumped on a city bus and headed back to the city pier where we started walking yesterday. Today we go in the opposite direction.

I still carried my backpack but mostly empty, just food, water and emergency stuff. Al had a small bag that he also carried. We really want to walk as much as we can today, so we are “slack packing” it. We left everything in our hotel room today knowing we are returning to the same place later tonight.

We continue through the city following the curve of the coast. We can see Soma on the other side.

Going up another level on the coast

We got a little lost here. We were supposed to go up multiple stair cases to get to another level but stairs were closed for repairs. We had to find a road that went out to the coast.

We are almost there, we unavoidably missed a piece but that’s okay.

It was rutted and rocky but still we enjoyed ourselves walking along the top of the ridge line.

We are about at the end of our cliff walk along the coast. We had wanted to do more that’s the reason behind the slack packing but my feet have met their limit. We turned in at an Estuary called Ría de San Pedro Del Mar.

Als Relive Video link is below, I almost forgot again

https://www.relive.cc/view/vPOprBywKEq

Tomorrow we leave Santander by bus heading further up the coast.. until then be well.

Leaving Father’s Ernestos

At this hostel we were treated like expected and welcome guests. We were invited to the dinner that they prepared and then waited on by them. Bringing us more helpings and encouraging us all to eat and enjoy. This hostel is special, they have a philosophy of volunteerism that he explains during a pre-dinner talk that we were encouraged to attend.

We left heading down, that was a first for us so far. Walking along on the side of the road heading to Galizano with the hopes of making it to Santander today.

We entered town and headed to the coast.

We left the town behind and started walking beside farm land on left side and the ocean to our right. The views were incredible and we could see Santander off in the distance.

We walked on the beach for a bit and decided to walk into Loredo heading to our next ferry point in Somo.

Walking through town seemed to go on for ever, almost the end of a long day. Lots of surf shops and schools here. We made it to the ferry just in time to see it leaving. We grabbed a seat and waited about 25 minutes for it’s return.

We booked ahead in Santander, we decided to stay two days. We want to try lightning our packs and seeing if we can walk more without all that weight on our backs.

It’s pouring down rain now but we carry on on the regular Norte route through the center of the City. We are in time for a late lunch and find a restaurant serving the Meal of the day. The rain has lessened now and we soon find our place and settle in.

Tomorrow our plan is to take a bus back to the ferry point and start walking the alternative route there along the coastline…so until then be well.

Leaving Santoña

Again our Albergue was right on the Camino. There was no kitchen here but it did boast a dinning room, for a few extra euros we could order breakfast. Not like an American breakfast, just bread, butter and jam, coffee and a piece of fruit. We’ve been given that a few times now.

Getting to Berria, the next town was a pretty nice walk. We walked out of the busy section of town towards El Dueso, a long high walled prison.

We continued on a paved surface but there was much to see and appreciate.

After the prison we continued on through this town, along the sidewalk, leading to the beach.

We left the beach and followed a winding path towards Alto El Brusco. We started climbing.

We were actually enjoying our selves, this was fun! Like an obstacle course climbing over different objects. We had prickly bushes on each side of the trail, so I figured if I fall down I actually won’t go far. I had a sense of security and enjoyed the climb. Then we reached the peak. Scary! No more bushes to protect a fall. Al had to take the lead.

Just love all the different flowers!

After the peak going down was rough! The ground was wet on this side of the mountain extremely slippery with jagged rocks jutting out. It was treacherous going. We went slow and helped each other over difficult parts.

Almost off the mountain.

Over and onto Playa de Helgueras

We came down several steps and we were out and on the beach, it was incredible, exhilarating , nerve wracking and fantastic! Loved it!

We walked across the sands to an opening between two buildings leading to Noja.

After we left the beach we continued down a gravel path between animals on one side and gardens on the other.

We were trying to get to Guemes, but somehow got off track.

We stopped for a break and the extremely kind waitress told us of an alternate route. We walked down Eucalyptus lined roads.

Finally we arrive at the best Albergue so far.

La Cabana Del Abuelo Peuto. We were greeted with glasses of fresh water and cookies during registration. Then we got a quick tour and led to out bunks. Dinner is provided as well as breakfast and it is all run on donations and with the help of volunteers.

Al’s Relive link of our day’s adventure log is below

https://www.relive.cc/view/veqzoZndGBv

Leaving Plaza Toros and Castro-Urdiales

Our Albergue was right on the Camino today, which was nice. It was a smaller one, just 16 bunks, I had the top one this time. 😐 I’m serious, getting up there is tough, there was also no rail on the side, I was a little concerned about rolling out.

If your not up and already moving the lights come on in most Albergues at 7am, whether you like it or not. They want you out the door by 8am, most times as today, we were the last ones. It’s not me, just so you know. (Note from Allen: just remember who is narrating)

We walked around the beach a bit last night before bed. We are now in Cantabria having left Basque Country when we entered Castro-Urdiales.

We started up out of the town heading to Santoña. First we have to pass through some residential areas, past a camp ground, down farm lanes and 5 km later we arrive in Allendelagua.

We have some sun for a little bit.

We walked a couple more kilometers to Cerdigo where then 3km more into Islares. After about 10km of road walking we caught a city bus to the next bigger town, Laredo. Another coastal beach town.

Here is Al’s Relive link, he separated today into two video logs.

https://www.relive.cc/view/vE6JnZd7yx6

After we got off the bus we started walking on the sidewalks through town leading to the ferry point.

We finally got to the El Puntal, the beachhead and had to walk over the dunes on wooden planks to the beach on the other side. The ferry pulls right up onto the beach and cranks out a gang plank to board the ferry.

Rushing to make the ferry.

It was a busy day in Santoña when we arrived, very crowded with people everywhere. The cafes spread out into the side walks and we tried to find our way through the throng.

We finally found our Albergue, which was tough it in was in Plaza San Antonio and looked nothing like the picture. It was wedged between two restaurants.

Al’s video log below showing our 2nd leg of today’s journey.

https://www.relive.cc/view/vNOPQN7G3Y6

Leaving Pobena

Well it started out okay…

We had a great walk out of Pobena. Of course we had to go up, lots of slick wet stairs.

We were enjoying it, there was a hand rail which was a plus. After a kazillion steps the path straightened out to a high walled path. Then we continued onto a cliff walk there were nice log rails on the side.

We continued along taking pictures then the trail split, top path was designated for bikes and bottom trail for pedestrians according to sign. We took the bottom path and continued on. Then things went south.

We were just walking along and then there’s a gorge! Which you can see in picture below has these rickety stairs and flimsy rails! I was terrified.

We had to go down the stairs then across the gorge on old wooden planks then back up stairs. Then they have this gate system meant to keep animals inside certain areas by making it a skinny funnel kind of gate. Well we aren’t small with backpacks attached to us, getting thru those things is difficult to say the least. Then the path just ended, there’s a cliff, and a small dirt path to the side, I tell Al, No way, I’m not doing that”. We can go up an incline, which we do, there is another funnel gate to get through and we see a sign on the other side of the fence saying don’t go this way, too dangerous!!!! What the heck!

Where was the sign at the other end telling us not to go that way??!!

Then there was the landslide to get across, I knew there had been one just not where on the trail it was. So we climbed over that and it was beautiful, lots to see.

We had to go through this tunnel, once through the other side the trail went down and we went under a freeway and into a small town .

We wound around a little bit then we’re out of the town and we walked up the side of a highway it seemed forever. Surprise another tunnel, this one was much longer. Finally we were walking into Castro-Urdiales, which is a sea side kind of town. There are several beaches and actually a bull ring. Which is where our Albergue was behind the bull ring.

https://www.relive.cc/view/vE6JnZd7yx6

Out of Bilbao

Today was our longest day walking so far, 16 miles and I only took one picture.

Actually it did get better after awhile. We told our selves No More Alternate Routes! The original route today was on the road thru the industrial sections of town. First we had to walk through the outskirts of town

We went through Barakaldo, we stopped here for a bathroom break. Then Sestao, where Al took that picture of the sculpture. And finally Portugalete. We were mostly on greenway. The country has a wonderful greenway system. Bike riders don’t have to share a lane with walkers but have their own 2 lanes. And there are bridges also dedicated to green traffic.

Then we left the industrial area and back into the country side. Flowers everywhere,

We followed a long single lane road to La Arena. A beach town. We passed through there onto a boardwalk to the beach leading to Pobeña. Our trail was actually across the beach to another boardwalk leading to a bridge into town.

https://www.relive.cc/view/v36A38zknZv

We found the small Albergue, the only one in town and got cleaned up.

One of the problems we are running into is the schedule of some of the Bars/restaurants. They serve the “ meal of the day” until 4, then it’s over until 7 or 8 pm when you can order food again.

There’s little things in the bar, olives or other small dishes with pintxos. The issue is we are dirty, hungry and tired in that order. A few times we have eaten lunch, meal of the day, then nothing else. We don’t want to wait to eat until 7 or 8, we want to be in bed by nine. Some of the hikers here shower then sleep, then wake up and eat and back to sleep again. In this particular town, there were only three restaurants, the 1st said no more hot food until tomorrow, the 2nd place said we just missed the time, nothing till 7pm. Another day with just granola bars and a shared banana, we were hungry but our choices are very limited, we do love the meal of the day so we waited.