Today we left Villafranca kind of early, we tried to send my bag ahead because Al was putting me on a forced march of 37 km. we also had 3 separate hills/ mountains to go over. That was a circus, we were told to leave the, backpack by the main desk, but doors are all locked up tight. back and forth with the backpack for almost 1/2 an hour. But we finally stated around 5:45.
Honestly the beginning of the day was great. We did about 25km which were good. there was always something to look at, or people passing by to talk with, there were the inclines but even those didn’t dampen our spirits, until we hit the edge of Burgos. Then it was 12 more km’s on asphalt. We actually walked around Burgos airport then into the industrial parts of the city, michalen tire, GM, car places and hotels. Streets and sidewalks are not fun. 
Lets talk about the fun parts of our day. Again it was dark and we we going uphill, we past thru forests of pine and oak. Al noticed there was no crickets or other wood sounds we are used to. The highest point we reached today was 1,150m on Alto Carnero. We are getting used to the climbs and the views make it all worth it. This last hill we climbed was incredible rocky near the top. We also walked right next to a military zone. With rows of razor wire and big signs saying to keep out. Once we got to the top we could see Burgos in the distance, a very big city, pop 175,000. It really didn’t look all that far away, I thought, no problem, bring it on. Looks are deceiving when you are up that high and the sky is so clear. Still 12 more km. Tucked Into that, which was hidden from us behind other small hills, were other towns to pass thru. 
We also walked past a monastery at San Juan De Ortega. The monastery is being used as a parish hostel. Al made a much needed pit stop there. I took some pictures while I was waiting. 
After we went thru a few more small towns and finally stopped for some food and coffee at Ages. The rest of our walk wasn’t so great, we came into the outskirts of Burgos pretty quick, and it was all road walking, then more road, then the airport and more road, then the sidewalks.
After forever it seemed, we made it into the old city. We had made a reservation at a hostel there. The clerk there told us a few museums close by we’re free for the afternoon if we felt up to it, also the big cathedral. We decided to go the museum of natural history. One of he towns we walked thru was Atapuerca. This is where the earliest human remains were discovered in Europe. They have an ongoing dig there and the museum we went to mostly focused on that particular discovery. It was huge and interesting but we were tired.
We tried to stop for tapas, which I still haven’t tried, but we were told, ” not until after 8″ . I am a little chagrined to say we ate at Dominos Pizza. Hey, it was hot food and we were hungry. The albergue at Villafranca boasted of a kitchen but only had a microwave. We had oriental noodles for dinner that night, so this was a step up. Hey we are eating international. 
WiFi was free at this hostel, But only in the office or stairwell right outside the office. Not no easy, office on the second floor, no seats provided, and we were on the 7th. The lights in the stairwell were motion censored and that turned out to be a fiasco, Al scared these people out of their wits. He had let the light go out and was working from his phone light, these people came around the corner of the stairwell, the lights turned on, and there’s this big man right in thier path. I gave up and went to bed, so sorry no blog this day. Maybe tomorrow.
Until then, be well.

No discernible sunrise today. It’s really kinda dark, gloomy, and chilly, which means perfect walking weather. We left even earlier then yesterday, up at 4:30 out by 5:30am. There are pros and cons to this, it’s dark, you can’t see anything, which also means you can answer the call of nature without worries of anyone seeing you. Which lately has become a problem. Not too many trees anymore, much more farmland with very little cover. There are no outhouses or port a potties here. I got some good advice from Darren before I left, “drink plenty of water”. Darren

, I must think of you countless times a day whenever I take a drink. When we started I don’t think I was drinking enough, I never had to go on the trail, now I am but there are drawbacks to that, as I mentioned above.
Anyway we went thru several towns today, some just a one street town. First Castildegado, then Viloria de la Rioja, pretty much back to back, 
We were in and past after 3.5km. Then a bigger town, Villamayor del Rio, another 3.4 then even bigger, Belorado. 4. 9 away. This is we’re we saw the ancient cave dwellings. Hermits used to live in these. This town also is a little downtrodden. Lots of abandoned and derelict buildings. It looks like the town has started a beautification project because there were murals painted everywhere. They also had a huge church with big bird nests on the top walls.
Aft we left that town we walked across a wooden bridge beside a another old 6 arch bridge. These things are old, still usable and in good repair.
4.8 km to the next town, Tosantos, then 7km to where we are spending the night. Villafranca Montes De Orca. This town has been welcoming pilgrims since the 9th century. There’s history here where ever you walk. Almost every road, bridge and even houses are hundreds of years old. 
After arriving, kinda early, we went to the pandera, (bakery), then the supermercardo, (grocery store). We got fixings for sandwiches, we love the olives here, they come in little plastic pouches, either con or sin huesa, with or without pits. We also like the wine, but none today, I needed a break.
Oh scratch that, we did have wine today. Al, a bad bad man, filled one of my water bottles with wine. So we had wine on the trail with peanuts for breakfast. White wine with legumes correct?
Some big hills tomorrow,
So until then , be well.

Today we started very early, up by 5, out by 6. Pitch black out, no monsters, but I was scared anyway. You simply can’t see beyond your little cone of light. That was terrifying, we were afraid of of dogs and of getting lost. 
We started out from Azofra and walked 26 km to Redecilla del Camino. Only 2 more km to El Chocaltero, but Al said no. I thought hey, there may be chocolate there right? 
We were tired and are still adjusting to walking everyday. Azofra didn’t have much but one street running right thru the center. We are feeling better physically but there are still some sore spots. My bones in my legs actually hurt.
After that we walked thru Santo Domingo de la Calzada, which has an interesting legend. It has to do with chickens, so already I was interested. Legend has it that a pilgrim couple and their son stopped off in this town on their way to Santiago. The son caught the eye of the inn keepers daughter, but the boy, very devout stayed firm against her advances. So in anger she hid a silver goblet from the church in his bag and said he had stolen it. They caught him and sentenced him to hang. Some say the parents had left the boy thinking he would catch up, but he didn’t. So on their way back they found him hanging on the gallows but by miracle from Santo Domingo, he was still alive. They told the sherif, “our son is no thief, take him down as he is still alive.”The sherif said, “your son is no more alive then this chicken I am about to eat.” Then his chicken jumped up and crowed. So they all rushed out and cut down the innocent boy. To this day the city is named after this legend and there are chicken plaques and roosters all over the place. I know kinda silly. But I like the chickens. Al wouldn’t let me get anything because then we would have to carry it. He did promise me in Santiago I can get something. He always says that, it means no.
We spoke with another Australian tonight and he told us something intriguing, that he worked in a man shed in Australia. Cool right, not quite a man cave because they actually work in it. I googled it. It’s the real deal, http://www.mensshed.org/. 
Al has a man shed which is more like a junk shed, but he tries, also he is not retired so I will cut him some slack there. Anyway, another bottle of wine, a great dinner, and believe it or not, we walked around the village to relax. Yup, more walking.
Tomorrow not too far I hope, 
Until then, be well.

We stayed at a converted hotel into a hostel. We shared a room with 4 other people. It was not a happy experience. There was another couple and then a son and his mother. He is actually in the US military stationed in Korea, and his mother is French, and doesn’t speak any English. Al was thrilled because when he was in the army he was in Korea also. The mother wore hearing aids and they spoke allot to each other, all night, loudly. Then they were up for a super early start at4:30 am. Toilets flushing, lights on and off, more loud talking. 
Al, of course slept thru it all. I know it’s wrong, but I was so angry, just laying there thinking about the sleep I wasn’t having, I tried to wake up Al so we could just go ourselves, but no luck. 
We still started out in the semi dark, thru vineyards and olive groves. 
Then we hit a bigger city, Najera. I was in a better mood now, it turned out Al was bothered by the other couple. And we had a few laughs about it. We met them again on the trail and I was very nice, no grudges! The couple are actually in the room next to us tonight! Al is going to try to snore extra loud tonight. Just kidding.
We are learning as we go, and you learn there is pilgrim etiquette. For instance you do not walk behind someone who is not in your group, you pass. I told Al I don’t care if someone is behind me. people will stop and let you pass, I am of the attitude, i am not stopping, you want past me, hurry up and go, I am not slowing down for you to get around. but today I had some one right behind me on this cement path, by the way we, HATE cement. Anyway, he was behind me, and click, click, click with his walking sticks. Lots of room to pass, but noo, he stayed right there, was I creating a jet stream or something? I don’t know. Also you don’t use your sticks in the city or on cement, unless you cover the tips, his were not covered. Al never covers his either, he just picks them up and caries them, which can also be a problem, because he gooses you with them.
Anyway today we walked just 24km, we got in early and found an albergue and walked around the town . 2 supermercardos and 3 bars. But today being Sunday, only 1 of each was opened. The store just wasn’t nice, all we bought were olives and juice, not sure what we are going to do tomorrow for breakfast. We ate in town also, another pilgrim meal. We wanted more time to rest, because I am still not sleeping well and we are kinda sore and blistered. We did take a nap, I mean a siesta, I was afraid I wouldn’t be able to sleep later, but I did. I am trying to seriously put into practice, be anxious for nothing! 
So until next time, be well.
I’ve included some extra pics in this post from the day before, for some reason they got stuck,up in my e-mail and took longer. 

One week today, wow it seems unreal really. Our we tired, yes, hurting, yes, but still determined. It is all so different then anything I have ever experienced before. When we leave in the morning, everything is closed. It’s weird there is pilgrim time, which we have to keep and then Spain time. We have to be in by 8pm, and lights out by 10pm. Then the next day, they turn the lights on at 6am, and want you out the door by 7. If there is something going on in the town we happen to be in, like there was a wedding we walked thru, there will be fireworks and music, and they don’t even get going until late. Stores won’t be open either, no cafe lechee! Rosa, the wonder women from the fantastic place we stayed at last night, left out things for us for breakfast, it was the best place. 
Anyway, another early start, it is great watching the sun rise, but I am not a fan of walking in the dark. We left Rosa’s with another guest, Mark. We walked with him on and off all day. A really nice man whom Al enjoyed talking with. 
The scenery was beautiful as usual, more windmills and a few big cites. One smaller than the other. The first town, Viana was having a festival, we think bull running. There were stalls up and they were putting protective coverings over the windows. We could also see some guys dressed all in white with red sashes around their waists. Clues. The town was picturesque, and most of the towns have really nice churches you can go and sit in. This one did not want us to snap any pics but the Father of church came and introduced himself to us as we sat outside eating a snack. Then someone else came by and gave us some bananas. Maybe we looked a little beat up, I don’t know.
Once we left that town we could see this mammoth town in the distance, Logrono, which has a population of 145000. It took us forever walking thru there. It wasn’t easy either, we got off the path once and had to back track. There are yellow arrows and way markers they put on the sidewalks, but there’s people all over the place and you have to be constantly looking for the next one.
We were pretty tired at this point, after we left Logrona we had already walked 22 km so far. Then we had a small mountain, 540 meters. And it seemed like endless walking. I was at the end of my endurance when we Findlay reached the next town, another 12 k away. We walked 34 km today, a new record, I told Al no more record breaking. We plan an easier day for tomorrow..
Until then, 
Be well.

It is our 6th day walking, we broke yesterday’s record and walked over 29km, yup that was 29km. We started out too early, it’s was dark and we almost lost our way a few times. We walked right past the Fountain Devino. A monastery supplies wine to the fountain. So you just put your bottle under the tap and instead of water, you get wine. We missed it!! We were both looking forward to that. We made up for it later at a break and got a pitcher of sangria. What so amazes us is that you see something in the distance, then it gets closer and closer and then your right up close. We walked past a major winery, we think it was anyway. There were clues, it looked like a fort but they had kegs everywhere and it was surrounded by grape fields.
The views are just amazing with always something to look at, when not staring at your feet. 
We past a Shepard today also, he had 5 dogs with him and the way he worked them was incredible. 2 dogs in front who ran around the flock in opposite directions. Then a lead dog, just walking in front and a big dog that just walked in the middle of the whole thing. The guy was yelling at the dogs when ever the sheep started spreading out. The last dog just kept watch on his own and when one sheep was lagging he herded it back to the bunch.
We past through a pretty big town today, it had a big church which was all gilded on the inside. 
The road seemed kind of endless today, I think we are starting to hit the flat land, we still had hills but not too high and not too many.
We had thought about staying in the big town, but again it was so early, so we trudged on. We thought the next town was only 3 or 4 km according to our map, turned out to be over 6. Then again all the places were full. We were waiting at the last albergue in town when one group of 3 said they would just stay in the same room and we could then have theirs.. The only alternative was
To walk another 8km. Thank you all again for keeping us in your prayers.
The place we stayed at was a private hostel, it was fantastic! We had our own room, it had a washer we could use, which meant we didn’t have to stand over the sink and do it all ourselves. And a dryer. we have been pinning our wet stuff to our backpacks and letting the sun do the rest. The women who ran it made us all dinner, and the house was like a museum. Paintings and artwork all over the walls. There was a patio with olive and fruit trees. No lights out tonight but we are tired, its 8:30 pm. 

Today our 5th day
Al and I each wore sandals today to favor our blisters, don’t think it really worked. Now I have new blisters in different places. We Left town and made it to the post office, yippee! We had help, I actually spoke spanish and someone understood me, have no idea what he said back to me, and he ended up walking us right to the post office and leaving us there. but the Gym bag is gone!. I wanted to throw it away but it is Al’s and he wouldn’t let me. 
We ate berries along the trail again today. Yesterday I ate a ton. we actually ate breakfast today before we left because we had to hang around for the post office to open. We only carried 2 apples with us and that’s all we had until dinner. We never stopped and rested either, after awhile it was mind over body, we willed ourselves to keep going.
We past thru grape and olive fields, and some hills too. we managed to walk 23.4 km today, after adjusting for climb. We got as high as 1673 feet. We walked a remnant of a Roman road also, this road was built over 2000 years ago, incredible. Al was beside himself, I got a whole lecture about it.
We ate dinner at this little bar with some English and Australian people. We had a great time because the person who owned spoke very little English. And was constantly using his phone as an interpreter. His mom was in back cooking the food, and the whole thing, the food, the company was just great. The people from England gave us lots of tips on what to do and even how to get around there. We will probably take them up on thier advice. 
It’s lights out in a bit so I will say adios until next time,
Be well.

4th day
We left pamplona early today , dawn here comes later, around seven, so it pre-dawn. leaving the city we walked thru the campus of the university of Navarra. We meandered thru the city and when we reached the outskirts we could see in the distance, mountains with windmills on the ridge line. I knew we would be walking past those today.
then we walked onto a range of hills leading up to a very steep hill /mountain called the Hill of Forgiveness, Alto del Perdon at 2,590 feet. As we look back I can’t believe Pamplona is so small in the distance. We had already walked so far today. We are Definitely stronger today, but the back side of this hill was horrible, all boulders and loose stone, it took us a longer time going down then up. We needed to watch where we put every step. 
After we finally reached more stable ground we then walked through 2 more smaller villages. We sent my bag ahead again, and I wore the dreaded gym bag, which I hate. It only has a shoulder strap, which means I can give the other shoulder a rest, but I look like an imbecile. Al used 2 bungee cords so it wouldn’t constantly flop around, which I try to cover with my scarf, but still, it’s truly horrible. 
After 21 km we got to Obanos and picked up my back pack, and it was still early, so we kept walking because the next town was bigger and we needed to make up time. We ended up walking 25km today.
The first 2 albergues w stopped at were already full, and we are still early, only 3pm. I can’t believe how many people are walking right now, we had to walk to the edge of town to find a place, but it was nice. We had to walk across the Queens bridge then only 300 meters, all up.We actually got a private room with just 2 bunk beds, ohh la la! The bad part was the incline to get to the place. It is built on a bluff and it was truly straight up. The queens bridge has 6 arches that span the Arga. Really impressive to think they built this so long ago. The roads are like that also, made of brick or cobbled stone rubbed smooth by countless footsteps.
Anyway, we stayed put and ate dinner there, I just couldn’t bear the thought of that incline to get back to our beds. Lights out t 10pm, more later.
Until then, be well.

3 rd day walking. 
We saved half a loaf of bread for breakfast, but soon ran across this house where a women was selling coffee and snacks out of her garage. 2 cups of coffee everyone. Two!! I was so fantastic after that, the whole day went well. It was the coffee and the lady at the store/garage who educated me in coffee lingo. Not coffee americano but caffe lechee. Anyway, why am I always obsessing about coffee, hmmm don’t know, don’t care. 
Rambling, sorry, anyway after we left Zubiri, we walked thru Larrasoana, this wasn’t bad at all, some hills, but we are getting stronger. Also we sent one bag ahead, you pay 7euros and they will drive our bag to wherever you walk to next. We each still had a bag, Al had his backpack and we jammed my backpack full of heavy stuff, but I still had about 10 pounds in Al’s gym bag. I looked ridiculous. We walked to Pamplona today which ended up being 20km. not too shabby! 
Before you get into the old part of Pamplona, you walk for hours thru the city leading up to it. Lights and traffic seem weird after the trail. But then you walk up to this citadel, that’s what it seemed like, anyway you actually have to cross a drawbridge to get into the city. Then colorful houses, ribbons and streamers everywhere. And finally our hostel. We showered then did our laundry in the sink, then went exploring. Dinner was a pilgrim lunch, sandwich, fruit,juice and Al added a bottle of wine to our menu again. I insisted we share this bottle, so we invited this German man we met on the train and had a really nice conversation about Germany and the differences between us and them. 
This is so different then walking trails in the US. This is set up for walkers, all the towns expect us everyday, you meet people all along the path. If you want solitude, this wouldn’t work. Al talked to a gentleman from Australia, I talked with a women from Sweden. We have met people from all over the world. It has been great if you ignore all the sore parts.
I am including lots of pics.
More to follow, 
until then, be well.