Walking from Negreira to Santa Marina

May27

This is a lovely little city. We walked around a bunch after checking in. Did our laundry at the laundry mat. We are kinda lovin the laundry mats. They are to me, extremely automated. You pay at one screen where you select what machine you are using, either to wash or dry. If you use a credit card it’s a cheaper price. The detergent and antiseptic is automatically added. I admit to not normally using one at home so maybe all laundry mats are like this now. I grew up with a strong dislike of going to the laundry mat. Bad memories. These have given me a new perspective and even fonder memories.

There was much to see walking out of Negreira. There appeared to be living quarters or old store fronts in the actual wall.

We walked through the wall, impressive. Then saw this statue behind. We talked about what it could mean for awhile. There was nothing there with an artist name or anything explaining it. We later found out that it’s a dramatic sculpture about migration.

We walked up and out of town where the road changed from cement to gravel. We passed a cemetery and a church.

Then we entered the woods.

We were feeling the weight of our packs today. We had wanted to send our packs ahead but when I called there was a communication problem. I told the person that I speak limited Spanish. He spoke rapid fire in response to every question I asked. I wasn’t catching any of it and finally just said, “ gracias, lo siento, no importa” thank you, I’m sorry, never-mind. We have been carrying them everyday when we hike and it would be nice to figure out how not to.

We continued along a ridge and then meandered down, to only go up again. Then walked on the sides of roads for a bit.

Some of their vegetables get as tall as trees!

We stopped for a much needed coffee break, two for me. We thought maybe a longer break without the backpack on would help me feel better, debatably.

There are really so many different kinds of things to look at. When we aren’t talking to each other, or in our own heads talking to ourselves we talk to all the people passing by. We have met so many nice people from all over the place and seen so many things that I know that the memories from this trip will be cherished.

We made it to Santa Marina, we walked about 14 miles today along the trail. Our Albergue tonight is called Casa Pepa. He makes dinner for everyone also for an extra 10e, which was good because he was the only place around. We had a really good meal and sat next to a great couple from Holland who had been biking the Camino.

Below is Al’s Relive video from today, until the next one.. be well.

https://www.relive.cc/view/v36AxrPMeZO

On to Finisterre

May26

We had made it to Santiago before 1 in the afternoon. We had packed our lunch the day before so we ate in the square, the Plaza del Obradoiro, by the Parador Santiago.

We assumed we would stay in the Monastery, we have stayed there 2 other times. It has over 2 hundred bunks, but reportedly, it was full. We couldn’t find a place anywhere in the older part of Santiago.

We actually walked the French route in reverse for about 4km through the city to our Hotel. We went past it a few times because it was in the basement of a Frutarías and on the other side of a 4 lane highway.

After dropping our packs and cleaning up we went in search of food. We missed it again, restaurant wouldn’t open again till 9pm for dinner. I bought some watermelon to see us through until then. I did some laundry in the sink and hung it outside. We then decided no way were we going to make it till 9pm for dinner. We hit the road again and used our Google Maps to find some other place nearby. Nothing less then 2 km away. We ended up in a fabulous place, shared some wine, a few tapas, a salad and a steak taco. Which was not like any taco I’ve had before. It was steak medallions, mushrooms and onions mixed with fries. It was great.

The next morning we caught a city bus back to center of Santiago. Which was actually the college, not where we wanted to be and the bus was full to capacity . We had to stand in aisle with our backpacks hitting people. We were the last ones off, headed out in the wrong direction, again, got oriented and made it back to the Plaza del Obradoiro where the Camino Finisterre begins.

I snuck into here for a quick picture, Palacio Fonseca.

Walking out on cobblestone roads. The cars would fly by making a rumbling noise.

We soon left the city walls behind. I find it incredible that we are in a bustling city and 5 minutes walking and there’s a farmstead.

Then we hit some woods and started climbing . At the summit we turn onto the road and there are some benches to enjoy the view back at Santiago.

We continued on through several smaller towns, then started climbing and climbing more.

We rested here and chatted with a few other walkers.

We finally stopped climbing the road leveled out and we stopped panting for breath. Then we saw this beautiful town in the distance. We were hoping this was the town with the Albergue we were staying in. It was not, a few kilometers yet to go.

The town was really just a couple of streets with very few houses. Negreira is still a few towns ahead.

Al took this video, and below is the link of our walk with Relive. We walked 14.4 miles, our elevation was a total of 1765 feet.

https://www.relive.cc/view/vYvEKyzGRG6

Tomorrow we leave Negreira, until then be well.

Bruma to Sigueiro

May24

We enjoyed our stay in this Albergue, even though I was TOPBUNK again. Have I mentioned that I seem to get the top bunk a lot. Well I do. A lot. Not a fan of climbing up that little ladder. Getting down, no issues, up, Ugg!

This was built right into a hillside, showers and bathrooms on the left, we had to go outside to get to them, bunk room and sitting area on the right.

The attendant here told us that we would not qualify for a Compostela once we reach Santiago . The rule from the church is that you have to walk the last one hundred Kilometers leading into Santiago to qualify. Those other 300 Kms we walked are irrelevant. 😐

We’ve seen the trucks delivering bread every day, 1st time I’ve seen the bin to put it into.

We have been seeing the same people now everyday since starting the English Way. It’s nice, even with the language barrier it usually works. The Greek woman speaks perfect English because she’s actually from Pennsylvania. The elderly Spanish woman, we had coffee with and chatted on the trail a few times now. The two young Danish girls whom are always singing or laughing. Then the group of four, no idea where they were from but we chatted several times meeting at coffee or beer breaks.

This was where we stopped for coffee. The person had all these statues and other things including a dinosaur outside.

We continued on, energized.

The weather was beautiful today. We seemed to walk on more paths also. The road top would just end and a gravel type path continue on.

We walked 15.5 easy miles today. Tomorrow we walk into Santiago, should also be less miles. We hope to arrive around lunchtime. Below is Al’s relive video.

https://www.relive.cc/view/vevYQ5W8nJv

Until then.. be well

Sigueiro into Santiago

May24

We were the only two in our Albergue last night. We chose to share a room instead of purchasing a private room but we didn’t have to share! No Top Bunk! There was a kitchen, a washing machine and it offered free breakfast.

We got showered and then washed our clothes. We hung them out on the line under an enclosed porch. Then we went to the grocery store. We decided on a fresh store made pizza. I happen to really love pizza so that sounded good to me. We also got some salad fixings, bananas, apples and things for lunch tomorrow.

We got a double whammy when we found we had no pan to cook the pizza on. I did check before we left and saw that the kitchen had just about everything, but alas no pizza or baking sheets.

Then we couldn’t light the oven anyway!

Al is good at improvising, he cut the pizza and put half of it in a frying pan and used another pan as a lid. It turned out Fantastic!!

We left the Sigueiro and walked a bit through town before entering the countryside.

Once we left the woods we started seeing the outskirts of the city.

Then before we knew it we were seeing the Cathedral.

We found the Pilgrims office and got our number then waited to be called in. I was 989 and Al had 1006. We didn’t know if we would be given a Compostela or not, based upon what we had been told.

But Surprise! We got them!

Below is Al’s Relive video of todays walk.

https://www.relive.cc/view/vevYQ52N3Jv

Also, Al forgot to start the Relive tracker until we had walked for awhile this morning.

O Burgo to Bruma

May23

I forgot to add this again, even my brain is tired.

https://www.relive.cc/view/vXOnxNZkMBq

We have been getting up and out earlier. We left the hotel and walked on the sidewalk until we were led down to the greenway. The English Way is certainly more way-marked, I’m not sure if it’s because we are closer to Santiago or not.

We saw a few people out walking or jogging. We left the greenway and then walked through a park until we turned at this bridge.

From here we turned up and back onto a sidewalk. We crossed hoping to go into this church. We didn’t want to disturb the people praying inside, so we continued on.

We walked along streets for an hour or so and decided to take a coffee break here.

We started leaving the outskirts of the city and entered a more rural landscape. Still walking on roads, but not as busy. We haven’t seen any rain since leaving the other route.

We couldn’t get any water here, non-potable

We continued walking in and out of a bunch of little towns. I took a screenshot of the list of them we passed through today.

Casa de Barral, a Late-Gothic manor house. This house was built in the early 16th century!!

Pretty much everywhere we look is something interesting, either beautiful flowers, old buildings even the roads are incredible. I certainly love it more in the mornings when we are just starting, I noticed by the end of the day, a lot less pictures.

https://www.relive.cc/view/vYvEKygP7w6

You will notice in today’s Revive video, we walked over 17 miles!! The “hill” we went up was 1522 feet. I think I cried once when we rounded a curve and we could see it still snaking up. 😢

Hopefully an easier day tomorrow, until then.. be well.

Out of Gijón to A Coruña

May22

We caught our bus early and had a long ride. Once in A Coruña, which is a bustling port town we made it to the beginning of the English Way.

We found the beginning of the Way in a square behind the Church. We followed a tour group inside the church. They were snapping pictures all over the place, we were trying to make sure we were in the right place. A kind priest came out and directed us to his office. He asked us where we where from stamped our credentials.

Below I show a picture of our current credentials, as we go we get more stamps. The last 100 km require 2 stamps per day to get a Compostela.

By saying our credentials I mean, our proof that we have passed through or stayed the night in a certain place. When we check into our Albergue they put their unique stamp on our Pilgrim passport ie, our credential.

Plaza de Maria Pita in A Coruña.

A Coruña is famous for its galerías, also known as a glass balcony.

We walked several more kilometers through the City before getting to our hotel.

Dorean got schooled on what a red light means at a street crossing , “No you can’t go, you go when it’s green” She just likes to just look, if it’s clear, Go!

Below is Al’s Relive video of our days walk. More tomorrow, until then .. be well.

Our 2nd day in Gijón

May21

We meant to go left at the beach and somehow got turned around and ended up near a traffic circle and I remembered that there was a church we had gone in and wanted to go back when there wasn’t a service going on. So we did that 1st.

These were both taken inside the Basilica del Sagrado Corazón. The murals on the ceiling were incredible. We tried to find out who painted them but could not.

After we left the church we made it back to the beach, I persuaded Al out onto the beach.

We walked the whole beach and went up h to be other side.

We walked on the promenade through the rain most of the morning.

The promenade turned into gravel walk then led up and around a point of land at the edge of Gijón. We stopped for a coffee and restroom break . That’s one of the hard things I’m dealing with walking here, finding a place indoors to go or even a discreet place outside without someone walking by.

We decided to eat early, last night we waited too long and had to wait until after 8pm again. We ended up having our best menu del dia so far.

Our salads were incredible, different cheeses, olives and ham.

We continued around town some more and headed back for our laundry.

After the laundry mat we turned in early. Tomorrow we head to A Coruña by bus. Below is Al’s video, I was surprised we walked 10 miles today.

https://www.relive.cc/view/vYvEKyZN4G6

Till tomorrow.. be well.

In Gijon

May19

Al booked us into another micro-hotel, we will spend 2 days here exploring. It’s over the weekend and not a lot happening bus wise on a Sunday. We will catch another bus Monday morning, early. Very early actually, bus departs at 7 for A Coruña. We are switching from the Camino Norte to the English route.

We have missed walking to Finisterre on our previous caminos, we are making that a priority this time. So far we have walked about 197 miles in two weeks! Seems crazy, I think Al is underestimating us. There is a lot of walking he’s not tracking, then there’s when he forgets to even start the tracker. 😐

Yesterday in Gijon we were all over the place, watching Al’s Relive video it looks like a giant spiders web.

After checking in and dropping off our backpacks we headed out. The beach has a long tidal zone. We walked down the promenade and it seemed like the whole city was there. We walked along and past the Church and ended up on the battlements.

San Lorenzo Beach, at low tide. In a few hours this sand will be under water.

Looking back at the beach and Gijón’s skyline.

After wandering around the Battlements we went down into an older part of town. There are several Sidrerias on each side of the road. We went into one and ordered a bottle. The waitress put it into this contraption that when you hit the button the sidra pours out and at the same time it aerates the sidra. Which you are supposed to just put a mouthful or so in your glass and drink it right way.

After are refreshment break we continued on down through the older section of town and made our way back towards the beach.

The beach is now under water, the tide has come in. We were astounded by the change.

Tomorrow we intend to go in the other direction down the beach and explore that end of town, until then.. be well.

Al’s Relive video which includes 89 miles of bus ride,

https://www.relive.cc/view/vYvEK4pYrw6

Walking on to Llanes

May19

We left Peral without breakfast or coffee, we assumed we would get it at the next town. You know what they say about assuming. The weather forecast said cloudy most of the day, but we walked in the rain for several km this morning. We hoped for coffee in La Franca but both cafes were closed.

The road was gravel this morning and we could see the mountains ahead.

Then we passed through Buelna. We did not take the traditional route along the coast this morning, we thought it might be to dangerous due to the weather. The alternate route followed the road. Not as many views but still flowers all over the place.

We walked on, up and down a few times, through the woods, past this really cool campground called La Paz, white circular tents were nestled under the rock face. There were canals running through the campground from the Rió Novales. We walked beside the river and then through the trees, a perfect little beach.

I didn’t want to leave this beach, just lovely.

We left the beach and went up a couple of switchbacks. We walked along higher on the ridge. Lots of people out walking here. Also cows, sheep and horses.

Al really wanted to see the blow holes, which we did but they weren’t active because the tide just wasn’t right.

We decided on a break, we each had a granola bar earlier but it was really nice sitting watching the baby horses. We ate some olives and popped the top on a small can of tuna.

We walked up and then down again then over a bridge over the Rió Purón,

After 18 km, We finally got a coffee in Andrin, I actually had two, it was almost 2 in the afternoon and by then I was having a caffeine withdrawal headache. Ugg! We met the sweetest man and I approached him and asked, “Donde está café”? He walked us through town and delivered us to the cafe!

We only have 6 more km’s to Llanes. We left town and went up some more switchbacks. We were up high on the coast again and could see a beautiful beach below.

We then had to walk on the side of the road again leading down into Cue.

Then sidewalks entering into the bigger city of Llanes. We booked ahead at the Albergue La Estación. The Camino is very popular now and even on the Norte we are finding you need to book ahead. Twice now we couldn’t get a bed. We have heard others saying the same thing. There’s just not that many places on the Norte unless your booking in private pensions or hotels. When we did our prior Caminós you didn’t need to worry about reserving ahead until you were closer to Santiago.

After walking partway through Llanes we found our Albergue and checked in. It turns out that I needed to specifically ask for a bottom bunk if that’s what we wanted. So we each ended up on a top bunk and another lesson learned.

Here is Al’s relive video of todays walk, a little over 24 kms today getting to Llanes.

https://www.relive.cc/view/vRO78QKYjK6

Tomorrow we plan another jump, we’re thinking of leaving the Norte and switching to the English Route to Santiago. Will keep you updated.. until then be well.

Leaving San Vincente de la Barque heading towards Colombres

May18

Our Albergue was pretty nice. We saw a few familiar faces. We did have to wash our clothes in the bathroom sink where there was wash boards provided. A nice clothesline outside under lemon and orange trees.

In the morning I took a quick picture before we left, it looks like the tide change is quite substantial.

I really liked this town, I loved the mix of old and new. But really I liked the old, I loved the stone walls and cobblestone streets.

We left early, before the crowd, as we leave we leave Cantabria behind and enter Asturias. Again we walked on cement roads but the view was nice.

I loved the sunbeam’s breaking through the clouds as I looked back.

We walked mostly on backroads through small hamlets and farmland. We did not see the coast today. When we got to the Albergue where we had hoped to stay, which has 117 beds, it was sold out. There were two other places in town, also full. We had to walk on to the next town. We ended up in Peral. We got a private room above a bar/restaurant. We went out to find a grocery store but no luck, we ended up eating dinner in the bar and had an early night.

It seems I forgot Al’s Relive video from yesterday, I like them. I like how it shows our altitude gains and distance walked. Even though, like today he forgets to even start it.

https://www.relive.cc/view/vXOnxPM2e5q

Now, todays,

https://www.relive.cc/view/vJOKZd5p85v

Tomorrow we hope to see some “ Bufones” , blow holes. .. until then, be well

ramblingduo

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